This week was the 75th anniversary of the liberation of Auschwitz, and I kept thinking back to my visit there years ago. It was haunting in ways I couldn’t have anticipated and that I haven’t been able to shake in the nearly two decades since.
The entrance is famous. The railroad tracks, too, especially for anyone who has seen “Schindler’s List.” The familiarity of a place one has never been before is a punch in the stomach. I didn’t want it to feel familiar.
I visited on a gorgeous spring day. Some friends and I made a weekend excursion to Krakow and, being serious intellectuals interested in history and culture, included a trip to Auschwitz. The train took us through the lush, rolling hills of the Polish countryside. As we walked the grounds, butterflies danced through the air and birds sang. I have read that when the camps were packed with people, there wasn’t so much as a blade of grass, much less wildflowers bobbing in the breeze.
Did people hear the birds sing beyond the barbed wire? The movies seem to always be set in winter, almost black and white even when shot in color. But what of those balmy days when the wind carries the syrupy perfume of freshly cut grass? What a cruel juxtaposition, to see the stars above at night or feel the spring breeze or hear a bird sing and to know the universe is brimming with beauty, and yet they are trapped in a living hell. A living nightmare.
Unfortunately, in the 75 years since the end of Auschwitz, genocide has not ended. It is always a delicate subject to bring up other cases, or other mistreatments. The point is not to compare; each case is monstrous for those who suffered. But if we think genocide is wrong, then it is wrong no matter who the target is, and we should push back against creeping “otherization” that strips people of their humanity, that treats them as a block to be expelled without exceptions. Because one cruelty leads to another. History might not repeat itself but it rhymes.
The National Public Radio show “Fresh Air” ran an interview with Laurence Rees, author of the book “Auschwitz: A New History.” You can listen or read the transcript here. National Public Radio delivers uniformly excellent reporting. Support them if you can. Journalism–the real thing, with reporters who dig for facts–is what keeps us free.
That top photo is one that haunts me most. It’s in the bathroom–it shows the long trough sink, and the squares are soap holders, with ridges so the soap doesn’t sit in water and melt. It sums up the insanity of Auschwitz: a place where soap was valued but human life wasn’t.
I am not in a position of authority here. I am not Jewish and didn’t know about the Holocaust until high school when I read Anne Frank. On the other hand, the whole point is the universality of our humanity. Everybody should care. We all must remember.
Amen to that….. All your photos are monochrome too (but the last one). On purpose? To show off the sad, terrible feelings this place still evokes?
We have a German friend with 3 daughters. He has been with each one of them to Krakau & Auschwitz…. I asked him where this morbid interest is stemming from, he couldn’t / wouldn’t tell. I also feel always quite desperate for the now-habitants of the places around Auschwitz…. How must it be, this eternal feeling of what happened then?
LikeLiked by 1 person
The photos are are digital photos of film photos. A couple of them show the bright sunshine of that day.
I think it is important to visit such places, as much so as visiting the American cemetery in Normandy. Otherwise they can become abstract, and lose their weight in the common psyche.
LikeLiked by 1 person
Oradour sur Glane is another one of these sites of conscience. I always tell people they should visit, but it is a gut renching experience.
LikeLiked by 1 person
I just looked it up. Thank you for the suggestion.
LikeLike
So beautifully written. Thank you.
LikeLiked by 1 person
Thank you for reading.
LikeLike
Sadly and beautifully written.
Having worked in refugee resettlement for almost 30 years, genocide is not an abstract concept. Listening to stories of those whose families and friends were massacred/raped/savaged is not something one can forget. Rwanda#Bosnia and Herzegovina#Sudan#The Rohingya.
The “otherization” of peoples by the current US administration is indeed a scar on humanity. Sickening. Nothing less.
LikeLiked by 2 people
Thank you for your important work.
LikeLike
Even more heart-renching is listening to family and friends who lived through the Holocaust; seeing the numbers tattooed on their wrists, the scars on their bodies.. Then, watch those same people reach out and teach us to reach out to others in need, whatever that need might be. Being targeted for one’s religion, whatever it is, is beyond imagination and yet we are seeing the same behavior rising again, not just in Europe but in the US as well. This targeting goes back ages in to England and many other Western countries who state they have no animosity toward Jews. It’s a lie!!!!!
LikeLiked by 2 people
I cannot begin to imagine how it must be to have loved ones who endured it. Wishing you all peace.
LikeLike
WORDS PRESS is saying my password is NOT GOOD! I’m not able to comment!
I noticed yesterday too that it didnot send out my mailer for MY BLOG POST!
THANK YOU for the reminder! The SOAP STORY will stay with me forever!!!
XX Elizabeth LA CONTESSA
>
LikeLiked by 1 person
Your comment came through. Never fear!
The soap dish has haunted me for decades.
LikeLike
SAD SAD STORY………how we let him do this is BEYOND ME!
THANK YOU!
XX
LikeLiked by 1 person
It’s slowly boiling the frog–little dehumanizing leads to bigger dehumanizing and then to total dehumanizing.
LikeLike
Thank you for this post. Sometimes it seems we learn nothing from history. And yet t’s important to keep speaking out, and not to forget. Your perspective, always so honest, so personal, is invaluable.
LikeLike
And all the more dismaying is that there are people out there who either deny it happen, or say it wasn’t as bad as the Allies claimed.
LikeLiked by 2 people
Yes, and it makes preserving Auschwitz and the other camps important, as a reminder that the horror was real and huge.
LikeLike
I was in Germany a few years ago, visiting a friend, while on my own I visited the museum and parade grounds at Nuremburg. It was profoundly haunting, painful, and frightening. There are videos and audio points and of course photos, as I walked through the museum I was soon crying and then sobbing and soon I had to go outside. Both my parents were in the Navy in WWII. Neither would talk much about their experiences. My mother had a letter from a boyfriend who told her about things he had seen, dead bodies lined up many of them burned. He said in the letter that if there was ever a doubt in her mind as to the horror of what had been happening he wanted her to know that it was unimaginable. There was no record of that young man after the war and my mother never heard from him again. I gave that letter to the local historical society. WE MUST NEVER FORGET
LikeLiked by 1 person
War is simply insane.
LikeLike
Beautifully written and poignant. It’s a good thing you went on a gorgeous spring day. Anything less and the experience could have gutted you even more than it already has. I can’t imagine the contrasts of valuing soap, but not human life and the beauty of life outside the wires and the starvation and sick twisted murders going on inside. xoxox
LikeLiked by 1 person
The beauty of the day made the contrast with the reality of the camp all the more vivid, how normal turns into nightmare.
LikeLike
On the anniversary, it was very touching to see survivors at Auschwitz. I don’t know how they found the strength to be there. We say that we’ll never forget and yet we are treating children on our southern border in an absolutely inhumane way. Where is the outrage? Another thought provoking post, thank you.
LikeLiked by 2 people
The Nazis didn’t start out with death camps; they built up to them, chipping away at humanity until genocide was the logical next step. Normalization of things like tearing children from their parents or treating people fleeing violence as perpetrators sets us off on the same road the Nazis took.
LikeLiked by 1 person
A fresh look at a topic that sometimes feels overdone. And I say that knowing that it can NEVER be the case. Thanks for the very human reminder!
LikeLiked by 1 person
After 75 years, certainly better takes than mine.
LikeLiked by 1 person
I have never been to Auzchwitz although I know a lot about it. In college I received a “certificate” in Holocaust Literature. Many of my classes were taught by a woman who survived several death camps, although at this point I cannot remember which ones. She also always wore short sleeves so that people would always see and ask about her tattoo. She never ever wanted people to forget. We studies the holocaust, literature written about it, the Nazi propaganda and more. You are right, Hitlers regime did not start out with these camps, the camps were simply a more efficient way to kill large numbers of people. In the beginning they shot people, or gassed them in vans. The cleaned out sanitariums and killed all of the patients, they murdered homosexuals and conducted horrific experiments on children, women, twins and more. Look up “the rabbit girls” these were women who survived the experiments. Here a a few books you might find interesting, Night by Elie Weisel, The Sunflower by Simon Weisenthal, Metamorphsis by Franz Kafka.
Thank you for sharing your photos.
LikeLiked by 1 person
No, at first they were work camps. The later ones, made just for killing, were much smaller, because they didn’t hold people long. So crazy. The point is, though, that the horrors started small and grew. Something we need to be on guard against.
LikeLike
All of my ancestors on my mother’s side died in concentration camps.
LikeLiked by 1 person
That is so sad. History is very personal.
LikeLiked by 1 person
After reading your post, I am having mix emotions about ever going there. I think I should so as not to be blind that these things happen, but then I am not sure I would like to be haunted by the feelings you described. Such a horrible thing that for some reason keeps getting repeated.
LikeLiked by 1 person
It is a very moving place. But also banal, and that banality is exactly why one should visit it. These kinds of horrors don’t happen all at once. They creep in, insidiously, until the entire architecture of a sick system seems normal. It starts with herding people into cages and progresses to exterminating them.
LikeLiked by 1 person
Certainly, something to ponder.
LikeLiked by 1 person