kid menu 4As a parent, I’ve been there and done that as far as sight-seeing and eating out with kids in France. Here are some tips, mainly for eating out with kids. Restaurants seem to be the most-fraught moment in many travelers’ trips to France, what with the different customs and language barriers (especially when menus use terms that are clever but not very clear about what will be on your plate). This is a repost, because today is C.R.A.Z.Y.

It’s fairly rare to see children at fine restaurants in France. It isn’t that the French don’t love kids–they have a higher fertility rate than other developed countries (1.98 kids per woman in France, compared with 1.91 in the U.K. and 1.86 in the U.S.). and government policies around maternity leave, job protection and pay are strong (I don’t want to say “generous,” because that sounds as if it isn’t deserved, when in fact it’s earned).

kid menu 2
Choice of slice of ham with fries or mussels with fries. Yes, the kid’s menu has mussels.

All the same, kids and adults occupy distinct realms in France. And to have the best experience possible while traveling with kids, it’s good to know the cultural expectations (you can always flout these–it’s a free country–but you will be subject to Gallic scowls).

Dinner is late in France. Most people I know eat between 7 and 8 p.m. at home (BTW, the French use the 24-hour clock, so it would be 19h (h for heure) and 20h). But it’s rare to find a restaurant open at 7. Most start service at 8. When toddlers need 12-14 hours a night and even preteens need 9-11 hours, it’s logical that they are in bed around 8 p.m. The French deal with this by leaving the kids at home with a babysitter.

grande bouffe
Opens at 7 p.m.! The owners have kids, so they’re understanding.

The other challenge is the French expectation that dinner should be enjoyed slowly. It is difficult to enjoy dinner when you have a ticking time bomb of a toddler sharing your table. We would target one of the few restaurants that opens at 7, La Grande Bouffe, which suited the Carnivore just fine, as it specializes in large slabs of red meat cooked (well, quickly passed near) a wood fire right there in the dining room. We would get there the minute it opened and order quickly, lest a big table arrive and overwhelm the one-man kitchen.

Our child would sit angelically for an hour, which seemed like quite a feat for a one- or two-year-old, but after that, all bets were off. First fussing, then increasingly emphatic demands to get DOWN. However, even in family restaurants, kids don’t wander the way they do in the U.S. Restaurants do not provide crayons and special paper placements for coloring. Bring your own. Also a sippy cup, because they also don’t have plastic glasses, and you can’t enjoy your meal if you are trying to keep your kid from dropping or knocking over a glass glass. A stroller is a good option (if there’s room–some restaurants are tiny), because they can go to sleep.

There are options, such as brasseries, with wider hours. Informal family restaurants–mostly chains like Hippopotamus or Buffalo Grill–open early and have reliably OK food but do you really want to spend your meals in France in the equivalent of Applebees? (I like Applebees well enough but I wouldn’t cross the ocean to eat at one.) One Parisian restaurant that’s quite loud–in a raucous, not discotheque way–is Nos Ancêtres Les Gaulois, a medieval-style place where the servers, dressed in period costumes, stab your knife into the table. It is not gastronomic, but pretty fun, a bit like our medieval meal last summer.

kid menu
Sirop is usually grenadine mixed with water; sometimes other flavors are available. Milk is almost never an option. Pom’pote is applesauce that you suck out of a little plastic bag.

Nice restaurants in France are quiet. In the U.S., the louder the better, but that doesn’t hold here. Everybody speaks in a whisper. That means you have no cover or plausible deniability when your kid shrieks. And nicer restaurants rarely have children’s menus or high chairs (and forget about changing tables!).

If you don’t want to go downmarket to family-focused restaurants, consider nice restaurants with outdoor seating, where the ambient noise level is higher. The catch is that all the smokers want to sit outdoors, but you might be able to score a spot upwind or with nonsmokers around.

Another option is to shift your schedule and eat your “nice” meal or main meal at lunch. The expectations for calm are somewhat less strict at lunch, plus the menu usually is cheaper–double win.

If a place doesn’t have a kid’s menu, they sometimes will offer the same menu as for adults, with half portions at half the price. One of our favorite restaurants in Carcassonne, Le Clos des Framboisiers, does the half-size, half-price option. Our favorite Chinese restaurant, La Jonque, suggested a stir-fry of chicken and vegetables with rice–not on the menu, but it was a big hit with our kid.

kid menu 3
“Pitchou” is a term of endearment for “child” in the South of France. The menu choices are hamburger (without bun), fish or chicken breast wrapped in hame and cheese and breaded. Sides are homemade fries, vegetables or penne pasta. Dessert: two scoops of ice cream.

Some years later, our kid asked to have a birthday sleepover with two friends, with dinner at La Jonque–ALONE. So I called and reserved two tables, specifying that they should be as far apart as possible in such a small place. The chef and his wife have kids, and understood. We arrived all together, then split into opposite corners of the dining room. Another family with kids about the same age were there, and those kids stared wide-eyed with naked jealousy as ours ordered on their own and seemed to have a great time at their very own table.

If you have decided your main “nice” meal is lunch, then you can have something simple or even get takeout for dinner. This is one of the best arguments for renting an apartment, where you can feed your kids, put them to bed, then relax with a glass of wine. I am not one of the people who will put a child to sleep in a hotel room and then go down to the lounge in the lobby. But it’s no fun (been there, done that) to sit IN the hotel room in the dark while your kid sleeps for 12 straight hours. A separate bedroom lets them get the sleep they need (a tired kid is a cranky kid), while letting you look over plans for the next day or just zone out in front of the TV.

The way to hold out from noon to 8 p.m. is to adopt the French snack, called un goûter (a taste), un quatre-heures (a 4 o’clock–this one doesn’t follow the 24-hour system) or even un petit quatre-heures (a little 4 o’clock). Don’t even get me started on how un quatre-heures is masculine when heure is feminine.

menu cite 2
An example of the lunch menu being the same as the dinner menu but cheaper.

I have found that an essential element to good behavior in children is to use up their energy. France has great parks and playgrounds. The lovely Place des Vosges in Paris has a big playground, full of beautifully dressed kids (wearing artfully tied scarves) being watched by their chicly dressed parents. Our kid’s eagle eye would detect playgrounds from a mile away. “Maison!” I would strain to pick it out, and sure enough, on the corner of a public square otherwise filled with café tables, there was a playground with a little house on stilts and a slide coming out. Just watch out for the “Pelouse interdit”–keep off the grass–signs and stick to the actual playground.

In Paris, in the basement of the Louvre, there’s a shopping gallery, and at one end, there’s a big empty space where you can see excavations of the ancient foundations. Almost nobody goes there (“What’s this?” “Old stones.” “Cool. OK, what’s next?”). This is the perfect place for some little ones to run and scream their heads off before dinner. It’s especially good on rainy days when they can’t run and scream outside; one of the few indoor places where outdoor voices are OK. Even if you’ve been hoofing around sight-seeing, your toddler has probably been strapped into a stroller and is dying to move.

With a little planning, your kid can have fun, you can relax and people around you won’t be annoyed.

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21 thoughts on “Kid-Friendly Travel in France

  1. You right about separate spaces, I did not realize it until I read this, I’ve been to France twice and never saw kids except mine at nice restaurants, well mine are grown now, but I just realized that. I also noticed the kids areas everywhere in France, the mini parks, so definitely separate.

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    1. Maybe in a family restaurant…I remember when my extended family went to Italy, the little ones had a hard time with how long it took (and, mind you, not rushing is considered good service, so I’m not faulting the restaurants). I guess we weren’t in family places, because we felt like we needed to get out before there were meltdowns. But anyway, it’s only fair to the kid to get out before they reach meltdown status.

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  2. I laughed out loud au bébé as ticking time bomb. Beyond apt.

    There’s an Italian place near Porte Maillot, Paris (can’t remember the name) that’s always been our family’s go-to for a meal out with kids. There’s lots of space, high chairs, quick service on the kids’ pasta entrées, and plenty of bread. It seems to me we could last there 90 minutes or more!

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  3. We have seen young children in – nice- restaurants early in the evening in France. So impressed with how the children behaved. They were polite, had really good manners and could barely reach the table. One little girl had her small doll, the waiter even spoke to the doll. Everyone in the restaurant was enchanted.
    Ali

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  4. I took my 6 yr old to Paris and London-she’s 23 now- and we had a blast. A friend introduced us to the merry go round at the little parks where the kids got a stick and tried to catch the brass ring. We ate ice cream daily as she was not interested in most of the food. I caved to McDonalds twice for lunch. Pizza also. I could always get some sort of pasta to make her happy while the adults ate. It also helped that I went with a friend and her two teenage daughters so they entertained my daughter. I found everyone to be so accommodating and friendly…almost as if traveling with a 6 yr old was a good thing. And I saw things I would not have if it had been an adult only trip. Adjust your expectations. The gardens at Versailles are fabulous for kids. AND! Best advice ever. We watched Mary Kate and Ashley’s “Passport to Paris” and “Winning London” a gazillion times before we left so she recognized all of the sites we saw. Highly recommend those movies as they gave her things to look forward to. In fact, she just came back from the Atlantis Hotel in the Bahamas with her boyfriend….said she chose it because she had watched a Mary Kate and Ashley movie about it when she was little about it.

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  5. I echo all those experiences. We travelled and stayed in France a lot – family – when our children were small, starting as babies and we just had to adapt. It wasn’t a problem and we encountered real kindnesses. Lunch was the best time for all of us, we found, and a great way to enjoy good food without hassle. Mind you, I was always a stickler for proper table manners, at home or in a restaurant, shrieking not permitted, nor wandering and always packed a few toys or books – plus I Spy With My Little Eye…as we waited for our orders to arrive. And, it being holidays, the big treat was this: eat your lunch, wait for mum and dad and then we will stroll off to the ice cream shop. The selection available in Europe was so different that it was irresistible. Maxi Bon. That was the prize! Nobody seemed to mind how messy the kids got, as long as they were enjoying their food eg wearing a pizza, in one case. Italy too – such welcomes! The expectation was that everybody was to enjoy their meal and the waiters were so kind and friendly. When staying with family, my two loved le gouter and joined in with a will. Glad you wrote this post, it explains all the whispering in smart places.

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    1. I think a lot of people already are overwhelmed just trying to pick a restaurant, without realizing all the different kinds (adults only to kids welcome), plus the different cultural rituals, like slow service being considered good. In the U.S., we went to a rather fancy Italian restaurant and in came an extended family, who spread out a plastic drop cloth before setting up a high chair. My European husband was scandalized, but I thought it was very respectful of the family to know that even the most angelic little one is going to spill, and they were assuming responsibility for it. That’s what it comes down to–knowing your kid’s limits and assuming responsibility.

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      1. Even though my children are in the late 20’s the habit of checking the scene for debris is still so ingrained that I do it automatically when Mr Green and I go out to eat. In the same way, it is a reflex action for me, when out in the car and seeing a train go by, to call out: Look! Choo-choo! Lord help us.

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        1. Oh yes. I still call tomatoes ‘may-toes’ and if somebody says “where are we going?” I want to answer “Blueberry Hill!” like Dora the Explorer. They are small for such a short time, yet it leaves such a mark on us–more than on them, because they don’t even remember this stuff. OTOH we still play Slug Bug.

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  6. We came to the Loire valley on holiday with our 18-month-old. We rented an apartment in a chateau and it was a great holiday. We got out early in the morning and visited chateaux, wineries or gardens before having lunch in our chosen restaurant. I always had a few snacks in a coolbag in case there was nothing suitable on the menu. We had a clip-on highchair and a booster seat in the car. Another visit on the way back to the apartment, then a dip in the chateaux pool or a run around in the grounds, before toddler tea and bed. Then we sat on the balcony with our glass of wine and pate and cheese and olives. Bliss!

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