Cheese soufflé has been on my list of French dishes to master. Done right, it’s like eating a cloud. A creamy cloud. Of cheese. Are you swooning yet? You should be.
But it seemed so intimidating. All those jokes about the soufflé falling and not turning out. The expression retomber comme un soufflé –to fall like a soufflé–means to suddenly lose interest.
I bought a soufflé dish for €1 at a vide-grenier. It languished, reproaching me every time I passed it by for some other utensil. Finally, I committed to the act and set out to research.
After comparing many recipes, and not feeling any more confident about the mission, I decided to also watch videos. I just watched one: on 750g.com, a cooking Web site created by two brothers, Jean-Baptiste and Damien Duquesne. The recipe is demonstrated by Damien, who is a trained chef and who has a restaurant in Paris called 750g La Table. In typical fashion, I was listening to podcasts while cooking, so I watched the video with the sound off and it was still very clear. So don’t be intimidated if your French is rusty–the actions speak louder than words.
It was a revelation. It didn’t look difficult. And best of all, there were no fancy gadgets. Just a whisk. Of course. Cheese soufflé has been a revered dish for about 400 years, since the chef Vincent de la Chapelle invented it.
The base is béchamel. In my old French cookbook, soufflés are right next to choux pastries and gougères, which also start with a roux paste and then add eggs.
If you want the chemistry of why soufflés puff up, read “Histoire de soufflés.” It’s a battle of water vapor vs. egg whites. Your egg whites need to be very firm–beaten to the point that the whisk can lift the whites as a block. This keeps the vapor–and air–inside like blowing up a balloon.
Cheese Soufflé (serves four)
6 eggs
1 cup (120 g) grated cheese like Comté or Gruyère
nutmeg
salt/pepper (but be careful with the salt–there’s some in the cheese)
1 2/3 cups (40 cl) milk
4 1/4 tablespoons (60g) butter (plus a little to grease the dish)
2/3 cup (60g) flour (plus a little in the greased dish)
Preheat the oven to 360 Fahrenheit/180 Celsius.
Make the béchamel: melt the butter completely, then stir in the flour. Let it cook for 3-4 minutes on medium heat, stirring occasionally.
Pour in the milk. I did it like Chef Damien, a little at a time at first, to avoid lumps, then the rest. Season with salt, pepper and nutmeg. Raise the heat a notch. Stir!When the béchamel comes to a boil, take it off the heat and stir it vigorously for a minute or two. Then put it back on high heat for one minute, continuing to stir. Remove from the heat. Add the cheese. Do like Chef Damien and add the egg yolks one at a time, dropping the whites into a mixing bowl. Stir well between each yolk. Put the mixture into a (separate) large mixing bowl.
Beat the egg whites. Lazy, I used an electric mixer, but Chef Damien, being a pro, did it by hand. More power to him, especially in his right arm. As noted above, beat those egg whites to stiff peaks. (The French term is so lovely–en neige–in snow.)
Add half the egg whites to the béchamel/cheese mixture. Delicately mix, ALWAYS STIRRING IN THE SAME DIRECTION and gently folding them toward the center. Then do the same with the rest of the egg whites. This is where the video really helped–to see how homogenous the final mixture is.
Pour the mixture into the greased, floured dish. (You can also do this with individual ramekins). Wipe around the edges. Turn the oven to the grill/broil setting and put in the soufflé. Leave it at that temperature for 2-3 minutes. Then turn the oven back to 360F/180C. Cook for 20-25 minutes (much less for little ramekins).
Serve immediately.BTW, in the unlikely event that there are leftovers, they reheat fine in the microwave.
OMG, this looks amazing and I just might try it. To heck with that, I’m coming over to your place right now!
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Seriously, it was easy. And not super-loaded with butter. Super-loaded with eggs, yes. But that’s protein.
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Heavenly and such good, clear instructions. It is funny how soufflé has become synonymous with difficult because really they aren’t at all. And Béchamel? If you use hot milk you can slam it all in to the roux in one go and you won’t get a smidge of a lump. The butter crisis is unthinkable … I am hopeful that there is an expert think-tank working round the clock in a bunker under the Palais de l’Élysée to resolve the issue 😳
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My understanding is that part of the butter problem is long-term contracts that don’t allow for price rises. Supposedly, when the current contract ends, prices will be reset higher and the entities hoarding what little butter is around will finally decide to sell. Otherwise, this is another effect of global warming–drought reduced forage which reduced milk output.
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This is the best article I have seen on the subject …. not a French paper, as you can see but the reasoning makes sound sense
https://www.theguardian.com/world/2017/oct/25/croissants-in-crisis-could-french-bakers-crumble-amid-butter-shortage
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You make it look easy because, france, french, you know? 🙂 Also I can’t believe the butter issue! As an american I find that funny and scary at the same time 😀
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No, seriously, it’s easy. I have a bad habit of not following recipes to the letter–always taking shortcuts. But this one was easy and quick enough that I didn’t need to take shortcuts.
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That is funny, join the club of not following recipes, but this time I will try not to deviate, lets see how they turn out 😉
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Watch the video first!
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Plenty of butter in our rayons…but only the expensive brands, not the cheaper stuff. I’m convinced it’s lobbying by the producers to get better prices for their labour – which are entirely well-deserved in my view. Meat and dairy and too cheap considering the real cost of making them. That soufflé looks lovely — reminds me that husband once made a chocolate one that was divine. Must try the cheese one!
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Did you see this NYT article? https://www.nytimes.com/2017/10/30/world/europe/france-butter-shortage.html?action=click&contentCollection=Times%20Insider&module=RelatedCoverage®ion=EndOfArticle&pgtype=article
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Yes, it seems to be getting a lot more attention outre-mer! And this line from the story to me is key: “The absence of certain products on shelves is an indicator of tensions between some large retailers and their suppliers,” the Cniel said in its report, noting that many retailers were refusing to pay the increased market price for butter.”
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Well it looks delicious! What is it about the lack of butter?
Brenda
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I get it about the butter now. Read the NYT article you referenced above.
Brenda
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The Guardian article was good, too.
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Next year…You cook….🤗
Ali
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Promise?
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YOU HAVE INSPIRED ME!!!!!!!!!
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Let me know how it turns out. I think the Italian will be impressed.
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Most likely no matter how I follow instructions it still would not turn out right. I mess up most of my baking and always have. It looks wonderful though.
I have not heard of the butter shortage there.
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I think you should try it! Watch the video, with or without sound, and you will see it isn’t rocket science.
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What size, in cups or in diameter/ height inches, is your souffle dish?
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7 inches in diameter and 4 inches tall.
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Love souffles – thanks for reminding me that I should try them again!! Like you say, they are not difficult to make, and they are so very delicious!!
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Chocolate is next to try.
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try passion fruit too – it’s a wonderful flavour for a souffle!
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OMG. I adore passion fruit. I got spoiled by the bounty of it when I lived in Kenya.
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You had me at the first picture. OMG squeeeee.
I used to have a recipe for a lime soufflé, mostly egg whites and sugar and lime juice. Will see if I can find it.
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That sounds like a delicious dessert.
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Yum! It turned out amazing. Thanks for the encouragment. I will try it eventually. What’s up with the butter shortage?
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The retailers sign contracts for a year. But prices went up sharply because a drought reduced forage and thus production. But the retailers want to pay the contract price, not the market price, so the suppliers refuse to sell.
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THAT LOOKS AWESOME! My husband would flip if I made this for him!
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Ha! You should do it. Really not difficult. Very impressive results.
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Many years ago I found a recipe for individual smoked salmon soufflés (basic cheese soufflé with a bit less cheese and some chopped smoked salmon stirred in). The recipe said to cook them then let them cool and refrigerate. When you want to serve them you turn them out on a baking sheet and top with a spoon of cream, then you heat them in the oven and they rise again! Great for dinner parties and we’ve had them every year since either for Xmas or New Year. Your post will have given a lot of people the courage to try soufflé.
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That sounds delicious. Good to know you can reheat like that, beyond just reheating the leftovers.
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