This room faces a pretty courtyard full of flowers. It has evolved as we worked on it, and I’m so glad we didn’t rush. Plus, I procrastinated on sewing the curtains and only just finished them.We have two vacation rental apartments, both extremely elegant and spacious, yet they couldn’t be more different. The front apartment faces south, with balconies over the street. It has some of the most elaborate boiseries, or carved high-relief decorations, of Carcassonne.

The back apartment faces north, with the hidden courtyard, and somehow feels more intimate, despite having large rooms and ceilings just as soaring as the front.
The apartments started as one huge, unpractical labyrinth (who wants to wind through a couple of other people’s bedrooms to get to the bathroom?). We sealed the connecting doors with sound insulation and drywall to create two separate apartments, which had separate entrances anyway.

That is why this room used to be a bedroom.
The previous owner’s wallpaper aside, it has always felt like a blue room to me. The front apartment feels red, but this room feels blue. Does this happen to you, where a room seems to tell you what IT wants? And it’s up to you to find the right pieces to carry out the room’s vision of itself?

The tomettes were stripped to their original state. Painting tomettes was fashionable, the restorer explained, because often houses had many different kinds, from different makers in different periods, with different colors, even in the same room.


Because it faces north, we chose a bright white for the walls, and gray for the trim–the reverse of the other apartment. I like that the boiserie doves are white while the chimney is a contrasting dove gray (it’s true!).
We bought most of the furniture with the apartment, but the family kept some things, including the mirror that was here. But look at that trumeau mirror the Carnivore found. We were going to touch it up, but friend Ali advised leaving it alone, and I’m glad we listened to her. It’s perfectly imperfect. A place that’s 400 years old shouldn’t be too glossy, even if it’s grand.


The furniture went through several iterations. We had the daybed in here with the greenish gold armchairs. They were true to the cool blue feel and went very well with the silk carpets the Carnivore scored (he is a genius at shopping, especially for antiques), but I wasn’t happy with two carpets side by side, as gorgeous as they were, and identical, to boot. They were still a bit too small. We separated them for use elsewhere and moved that furniture to the front living room. This is what happens when you furnish with antiques: you discover something, then find something else. It takes time, not like walking into a store and getting everything at once. I am very happy about giving these beautiful, high-quality pieces a new life.


We found a bigger carpet, mostly cream tones, with a little blue-green and touches of salmon. And the salmon chairs, which had been in the front, worked here, despite not being blue. They actually are the exact same color as the tomettes. This wasn’t on purpose–they were upholstered before the tomettes were restored, when the floor was a dark red. Happy luck.

We managed to find a Louis XVI-style sofabed–not easy! I’m not a fan of sofabeds, but we wanted to give the option for more people; the front apartment is for two people max. The sofa (which has a matching armchair) has a dark teal-blue stripe. The curtains are a paler shade of the same color. They turned out great–out of all the curtains I made (for five very tall rooms), they were the least anguished.

The coffee table was hand-carved in Lamu, Kenya, by an artisan I first met in 1985. He was still in the same place when I was back in 2001. I bought a chair from him, and also wanted a coffee table. He didn’t have one but, not wanting to miss a sale, got one from his house to sell to me. Trust me, I gave him a good price. In our house, that table felt too small, but here, with the imposing sofa, it feels just right, and it’s easy to move if the sofa needs to turn into a bed.
Behind the sofa, the piano moved in from the other apartment’s entry. I hope to get it tuned, if that’s even still possible. A painting, strong on blues, by my mother will go above the piano as soon as it’s framed. We are looking for other little gems to decorate as well. I think it will never be “finished,” but will always be evolving based on our discoveries.

If you look closely, you’ll see how we repurposed furniture. The armoire originally was in the kitchen; husband cleverly installed rods for hanging clothes; it also holds pillows and extra blankets for the sofabed.
The lyre-back chair was originally in this room (you can just make it out in the shot with the bed), and now accompanies a little desk.The pièce de la résistance, though, is the chandelier. Not only is it dripping with crystals (called pampilles), it is gigantic. The room is so large and the ceiling so high that you don’t realize just how huge it is.
We bought it via the French version of craigslist, driving at night into the foothills of the Pyrénées to a house on the edge of a little village without cellphone reception. Yes, it totally felt like a horror movie. But the sellers were lovely and their house was beautiful. It was more like an oversize cottage, rustic, with low, beamed ceilings, and its new owners said their old chandelier didn’t work at all–it was too big and anybody kind of tall would bump their head on it. We barely squeezed it into the car. The Carnivore had spotted the ad only about an hour after it was posted, and we were there about two hours later to buy it, otherwise it surely would have been snapped up by an antiquaire and resold for many times more.

This entry is fairly small: just a coatrack in there. Previously it had been used as a closet. In the first before photo, you can see the linoleum that had covered the tomettes. There’s another small bedroom off the entry; I’ll show it later.

The apartment is for rent via AirBnB or VRBO (which is the same as Homeaway and Abritel). Or contact us at booking.carcassonne@gmail.com.
(The front apartment can be found here on AirBnB or here on VRBO.)

INSPIRATIONAL!!!
JP
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Thank you! Your place is pretty inspirational as well.
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Beautiful transformation. I love the mirror and glad you left it as is. I love imperfections as you know. I gasped when I saw the armoire. What a beauty.
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Yes, it has a lot of character with those faces.
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Both of your apartments are stunning. I am wildly jealous! Will we get to see the new kitchen in this apartment soon, or have I missed that post?
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This apartment has the BIG kitchen, which has a link in the caption about the door to the kitchen. Also here: https://francetaste.wordpress.com/2017/01/06/beforeafter-kitchen/
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Thank you so much! I did actually see it but thought it belonged to the other apartment. It’s utterly gorgeous.
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We have rented private apartments throughout Europe and the United States extensively. Both of your apartments are lovely and show very nicely. I think you should do very well with them. We will be in Europe this summer, but, unfortunately, not that far south. I will bookmark this for a future trip. Good luck!
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I hope you make it to Carcassonne another time!
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The tomettes in their natural color are so beautiful, and I love the combination of blue tones and the salmon-colored chairs. I’d missed the post about the kitchen, you did a terrific job on it.
But why do those big fireplaces have little dust ruffles across the top? I should think they’d be a fire hazard.
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Who knows? Burning in the fireplaces hasn’t been allowed for quite a while.
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From what I understand, the ruffles were put there to improve the drawing of the fireplace, and to keep the smoke in – apparently some fireplaces were very smoky!!
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That is fascinating! I guess the fireplace is so big, the ruffles were far enough away from the flames.
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It’s all lovely and your curtains are a triumph. As to places telling you what THEY want; it took a few years for our house to find it’s voice but that voice is certainly loud enough now!
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I can’t wait to see yours.
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It turned out wonderful….now you need paintings of the venerable ancestors lining the walls. What stories they could/would tell…..you both did so much work. Congratulations!!!
Ali x
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Thank YOU so much for your call on the mirror!
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You friend was right. The honest wear and tear and imperfections of age tell a story.
Not that everyone gets that. I have just ebayed an old French mirror with most of the paint gone. Some would prize that patina; I just know this buyer will moan.
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I’ve seen some things redone nicely, with taste. One can only hope for the best. And in any case, it is getting a new life. Focus on the positive.
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Your blogging name is accurate. It is France and you have superb Taste. I will share your post with friends on various social media and tell them to book quick if they want to enjoy your stunning place because you certainly won’t be short of takers! Chapeau m’dame!
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Aesthetics and gastronomy are our things. Thank you for spreading the word!
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Looks so great!!!
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Thank you!
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It all looks so amazing. Do you ever do long-term stays in the off season? Just thinking that at the end of the year we’ll need a place to live while we look for a house.
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We can do up to three months. Longer than that is not a vacation rental and falls into a different legal category.
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That said, you could stay in one apartment for three months and then move to the other apartment for three months.
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I’m intrigued with the machine used to clean the tomettes – is that a sander?? Whatever used, the end-result looks amazing!
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Yes, some kind of sander, but he first soaked the tomettes–not sure with what because it didn’t stink.
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