Asperges sauvages

Wild asparagus, thinner than a pencil

Here is a typical spring recipe using one of the greatest delights of spring: wild asparagus.

The garrigue….habitat of the wild asparagus

Wild asparagus grows in the garrigue, an area that’s hard to describe. The closest is what in Africa would be called the bush. It isn’t really a forest, though there may be wooded parts, notably stands of pines that make the garrigue seem to sing as the wind whistles through their needles. There’s a lot of low brush, and amid it, the telltale feathery ferns of asparagus that indicate a succulent sprout will be weaving through the branches nearby. They are so fine, they are nearly impossible to see.

See the spiky, fern-like stuff? This one was too close to the road, so the asparagus had been harvested.

A friend took me aparagus picking in the garrigue and I was completely nul. I couldn’t make out the ferns, let alone the sprouts. There would have been no asparagus omelette were it not for the generosity of my guide.

Two bouquets for €5

If you can’t get to the garrigue, you can sometimes find wild asparagus at the market, at least in Carcassonne. Look for the small tables selling things like almonds, herbs and garlic.

To avoid the tough parts of the stems, bend until they snap

The stems can be tougher than regular asparagus, so use the bend and snap method to get as much as possible of the tender stalk. Chop into half-inch lengths. It’s easier to cut raw than cooked. Plus, by cutting it up, you can layer the stems on the bottom of the steamer basket so they get cooked more than the tops.

Steam a few minutes—just enough so the asparagus will melt in your mouth. Another alternative is microwaving. Arrange on a plate, lay a sprig or two of fresh rosemary on top, cover with microwavable film and cook on high for 2-3 minutes—less if you have a little asparagus; more if you have a lot.

This is the little one….and today I used yogurt (zero percent….have to be yin and yang with the butter, you know)

The omelette is one of those fluid recipes where everything depends on what you want. Some in our household prefer three or four eggs, very runny inside. Some prefer two eggs, well-cooked. Everything is possible, because you make them one at a time.

Asparagus omelette

2-4 eggs

a swig (1/4 cup or less if 2 eggs; 1/3 cup if 4 eggs) of milk, cream or even yogurt (cream is best for fluffiness)

salt, pepper

1/4-1/2 cup grated cheese (I use the ubiquitous emmental, but go with what you like or have on hand)

steamed asparagus

butter

glass of wine (red or white, depending on your preference)

Good cookin’ ahead

Beat the eggs, milk, salt and pepper. Melt the butter over medium-high heat in a skillet with low sides (easier to get your spatula in for turning). When the butter has browned and the bottom of the pan is well-covered, pour in the eggs. Use a fork to work the runny top toward the bottom, but don’t do it too much or you’ll have scrambled eggs.

Don’t forget the secret ingredient

If you don’t like runny eggs, make little vents in the omelette for the liquid to seep down to the pan. You also can lift the edges and tilt the pan so the uncooked egg slides over. But don’t overcook, because you still have to let the cheese melt.

See those bubbles? If you pop them, the uncooked egg will seep down and get cooked….unless you like runny eggs.

Have a sip of wine while you’re waiting….it’s time for aperitif!

Sprinkle the cheese over half the omelette, then the asparagus.

Let the omelette cook for a minute. Do nothing to it! This makes the bottom cook enough to hold together so you can fold it. You can peek by lifting an edge, to make sure you aren’t overcooking, but don’t try to move the whole thing too soon.

Now get your spatula under the ungarnished half of the omelette and gently fold it over the garnished part. Let it cook another minute, so the cheese melts.

You should be able to just slide the omelette out onto a plate, no lifting necessary.

This is obviously a runny one

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